Monday memes with silver themes

Happy Monday boys! DON'T TRY TO READ THIS ON A PHONE, YOU'LL WANT A BIG SCREEN.

Today we're talking about silver: why you should have some, and how to get it. I've been ranting about silver for years to anyone that would listen and feel pretty smug about it right now, but please don't think you've missed the boat.

The short version of this very long email is: silver should be at least a few hundred dollars per ounce, and you should get a few dozen ounces as soon as you can to build generational wealth and/or eventually trade for real estate.

My first piece of silver was a 'Jesus Clears The Temple' 10ozt silver bar

After these preliminaries, I'll explain what silver I'd recommend buying and how to go about it, and later on we'll get to why all this matters. Yes, all these images are in the download link at the bottom. Feel free to forward to a White man who needs to stack.

It's worth noting that precious metals are almost always denominated in the Troy ounce (ozt), which weighs 31.1035 grams (which is not the usual ounce (oz) which weighs 28.35 grams), or in metric units.

In general, the more ounces in a given piece of silver, the lower the per-ounce amount of premium will be. So a 1ozt piece of silver will almost always be more dollars of premium per ounce than a 10ozt/1kg/100oz bar. However, the smaller the silver, the easier it is to trade/barter with. Imagine the economy collapsed and you're trying to buy groceries or whatever with $1/$5/$20 bills versus $100/$1,000 bills. Not a lot of people would be able to break a $1,000 bill or a kilo of silver, ya know?

With divisibility in mind, I recommend having a nice assortment of silver on hand so you could "make change" as needed. Don't just get a kilo (32.15 ozt) chunk and hope to saw it into bits or whatever.

Every precious metals website is fundamentally the same. They all have the spot price at the top, and largely carry the same inventories. The differences between them are mostly fluff, or specializing in one sort of thing or another. No, I'm not getting paid to promote any of this. I recommend the very based and Christian-owned website SD Bullion. I've also used Bullion Exchanges and Silver Gold Bull in the past, but they're owned by jews. The premiums might be lower though—you'll have to decide what's right for you.

The prices are always listed in a way that obscures the exact premium the dealer assesses on top of the 'spot price' listed on the page. I'll show you the calculation in a minute.

Coins and rounds look similar, but coins are official government currency, whereas rounds are just...round. Rounds have WAY lower premiums than coins; the tradeoff is, coins are much more recognizable (anyone can make a round, but there are only a few government mints out there sadly) and tend to command a premium.

.999 purity is considered 'fine silver' (99.9% pure), but there's also .9999 (99.99% pure), which can sometimes be cheaper! When the going gets tough, I doubt people will care if it's .9999 pure or .999 pure or .90 pure. Our coins used to be made of 90% silver, and this is referred to as "junk silver", but it's not junk. Buying this 90% pure "junk" (or "Constitutional") silver isn't a bad idea, as you'd have excellent divisibility. The trick is to make sure you're not paying an obscene amount of premiums per ounce of actual silver!

Before I show you how to calculate premiums, we'll look at the pieces we're comparing.

Of all the single ounces of silver you could buy, I think the Royal Canadian Mint's silver maple leaf coin is the prettiest:

https://sdbullion.com/2026-1-oz-canadian-maple-leaf-silver-coin

But, the American Silver Eagle (ASE) 1ozt coin is the most sought-after silver coin in the world. I don't know why. I think it's ugly, and it's a bit more than 1ozt because they have other metals in it to make it less likely to tarnish or whatever. And the premiums on them are through the roof. ASE enthusiasts will tell you that their high desirability makes them ideal for SHTF bartering. I'll take 1ozt Canadian silver maples ANY day, as they are .9999 pure (instead of 'just' .999 pure) and look absolutely spectacular.

https://sdbullion.com/2026-1-oz-american-silver-eagle-coin-bu

This next one is a round, not a coin. It's still an ounce, but because it's made by a private mint (not an official government mint), its "recognizability" is lower and it's considered less desirable. But, you can break it into four pieces if you want, and I think that's pretty desirable!

https://sdbullion.com/1-oz-sd-bullion-divisible-silver-round

Right, so I opened up all three of these links and refreshed at the same time, and the silver spot price at the top of the screen was $108.41. The spot price is "the going rate" for a Troy ounce of silver (any dealer will buy from you "at spot"), and now I will finally show you how to calculate premiums.

Spot price: $108.41

1 ozt maple: $118.37 - $108.41 spot price = $9.96 of premium

1ozt ASE: $123.07 - $108.41 spot price = $14.66 of premium

1ozt divisible round: $116.37 - $108.41 spot price = $7.96 of premium

In all three instances, you're getting an ounce of silver, but there's quite the range in premiums as you can see! I think the divisible round is the clear winner, but maybe you're a ASE guy or maple guy. The only wrong answer is owning no silver.

I will now show you how to calculate premiums on quantity discounts. I took screenshots of these three products and put all three in one image using the power of MSPaint, and ran the premium calculations for buying one ounce (in green) vs the per-ounce quantity discount when you buy 100 (in red):

By comparing the same exact piece across different websites, you can calculate premiums and see which has the cheapest premiums. As always, buying in quantity gets the per-item cost down somewhat.

If the piece you're buying isn't exactly one ounce, we have another step of math to do to calculate premiums. Here's an example using this 10ozt bar: https://sdbullion.com/10-oz-sd-bullion-proclaim-liberty-silver-bar Note that the spot price here is $108.52 despite only being a few minutes later. Expect the spot price to fluctuate all the time!

Hopefully you get the point. It's worth noting that a few mints will make silver that is expensive in terms of premiums, but carries next-level meme value. These are my favorite examples:

https://www.goldenstatemint.com/10-oz-jesus-clears-the-temple-silver-bullion-bar-999-fine.html (this was my first piece)

https://www.goldenstatemint.com/1-oz-Bankster-Justice-BU-Silver-Round-999-Fine.html

Also, most sellers will charge huge fees for using cards or PayPal, so try and do a wire transfer from your bank instead. They'll put a 10% hold on your debit card or whatever, and then you pay the bank $20 to wire over money, and then you get silver in a week or two. PAY THE EXTRA ~$15 FOR EXPEDITED SHIPPING. The stress of waiting for silver for an extra week or two to save a few bucks is NOT worth it.

You can also go to your local coin shop (LCS) if you want to pay more in premiums...but you can also walk in there with a wad of cash and walk out with untraceable silver.

It's worth noting that silver will tarnish (NOT rust). Silver can be cleaned back to perfection with a variety of non-destructive procedures. It's best to have a few pieces to give up on ("fondlers"), and then keep the rest out of sight in somewhat airtight containers, and they won't tarnish. But silver sitting out on your desk will tarnish, and that's sad because it's so shiny at first.

And now, the bulk of the propaganda. This knowledge comes from only the finest and most reputable sources: the /SETF/ ("Silver Ends The Fed") threads on 4chan's /politically incorrect/ board, and some WallStreetSilver subreddit stuff.

The silver conspiracy in a nutshell is that silver and gold have historically been tied to each other, and the jews keep inflation metrics low by suppressing silver so we're less likely to notice they're scamming us.

The 'gold to silver ratio' (GSR) of roughly 15oz of silver to 1oz of gold was fairly constant throughout the millennia...until fractional reserve central banking came around. Then, the peons started noticing when their dollars bought less and less.

So "they" invented paper silver certificates and routinely short them on the market, which pulls the physical (real) silver spot price down, which pulls gold down (because they're historically tied to each other), and gold being pulled down pulls other commodities down, and then the inflation doesn't look as bad on paper!

The silver market cap is extremely small, so it's easy for "them" to manipulate. Right now the GSR is 1:47, so silver is historically underpriced (relative to 1:15). When I say 1:47, I mean that 1 ozt of gold could buy 47 ozt of silver. If gold is $5,113.13/ozt right now, a 1:15 GSR would put silver at $340.87/ozt (one-fifteenth of $5,113.13). Keep in mind though that the point of all this trickery is to pull the price of gold down so the goyim don't realize they're being robbed with fractional reserve central banking, so gold should probably be even more expensive...which means silver should, too. And if you'd prefer, go for the gold! I believe think silver has more potential upside. People trade their gold for silver and vice-versa as the ratios adjust over time, too.

Basically the jews just do this digitally now

This is the #1 most important summary of why our monetary system is the way it is. If you listen to it at the gym, it will give you great power. The video is irrelevant, it's a 43 minute compilation of segments from a radio show: